JUMBLE
POKER
by
Jean Devriès
This routine which uses the Bob Hummer's CATO
principle (Cut And Turn Over), is inspired by Larry Lorayne's effect
called “Hidden Gems” (Genii 2009).
Effect.
After a card had been selected by the spectator and placed aside,
several cards are dealt, face-up/face-down, onto the table. Then, the
dealt packet is cut, top cards are turned over, and so on, several
times over, at will. Finally a retro-Faro is executed to increase the
“chaotic” condition of the packet. After spreading the cards
across the table, only four appear face-down in the ribbon.
Surprisingly, these four cards associated to the spectator's one
reconstitute the Spade Royal Flush of the deck. The experience is
repeated with the same shuffled deck; but now, it is the Diamond
Royal Flush which is obtained! (see Video).
Set-up. On top of the deck place the five Spade Royal Flush cards (Ten to Ace, in any order) followed by those of the Diamond ( also in any order).
Set-up. On top of the deck place the five Spade Royal Flush cards (Ten to Ace, in any order) followed by those of the Diamond ( also in any order).
Performance.
PHASE
– I (Spade
Royal Flush)
1°/ Begin spreading the deck, face-down,
across the table, then using the forefinger turn the ribbon over in
wave (Photo 1a). Immediately gather the cards and riffle- shuffle the
deck (face-up) maintaining the set-up in place (on back) (Photo 1b).
Holding the deck face-down use a swing-cut to centralize the
set-up, taking a pinky break above it (Photos 2a, b). Now, spreading
the cards towards the spectator, “force” it to touch one of the
five cards directly below the break (Spade Royal Flush). Peel the
touched card onto the table (Photos 3a, b).
Be careful to re-take the
pinky break when you close the spread into the left hand (Photo 3c).
For the moment the spectator does not glance at the identity of his
card. Displace the card a little aside.
2°/ Now say to the spectator:”I'm
going to complicate things, dealing
cards, face-up and face-down” Proceed
as follows. With the tip of right fingers into the break flip the
upper packet over onto the lower (Photos 4a, b). Then the right hand
grasps the deck from above (in Biddle grip). The left hand, slightly
squeezing the deck between the thumb and fingers, “draws” the top
and bottom cards towards the left, and deposits the two cards,
turning them over together, onto the table (Photos 5a, b). Draw an
other card pair (Photo 5c) and deposit it directly onto that already
on the table. Repeat the previous operations drawing two new pairs,
and, turning over one of them before it is deposited onto the tabled
cards.
In a continuing action, rapidly spread the
deck between the hands to locate the separation point of the two
halves. Turn over, face-up, the lower portion and slide it below the
upper (Photos 6a, b). Grasp the face-up reconstituted deck from above
with the right hand, and, as explained previously, successively draw
four card pairs from the deck and drop them, turned over or not, onto
the tabled pile (Photos 7a, b). In the course of the dealing, as far
possible, take precaution not to expose the bottom card face of each
pair (Spade Royal Flush cards).
3°/ Set the rest of the deck, face-down and crosswise, onto the spectator's card (Photo 8). Bring the dealt cards together and square them. Then execute two or three complete cuts of the packet (between hands or on table).
4°/ Continue to “mix” the cards as
follows. Hold the packet in left hand dealing grip and use the thumb
to push a few cards. The right hand takes 2, 4 or 6 of them off,
always in ever number, without inverting their order,
and flips all them over directly onto the packet (Photos 9a, b).
Immediately complete cut the packet. You can repeat these
operations at will. At this point spread the cards
between the hands, to show their “jumble condition”. And
say:”Now, I'm going to increase more again the disorder of the
cards!” As you deliver the last words close back the packet and
follow through with a retro-Faro: spread again, out-jogging every
other card (Photos 10a, b). Then take the jogged card group off, and
flip it over onto the other (Photos 10c, d). To finish execute one
or two complete cuts in hands.
As a result of these operations, all the cards are facing in one direction except the four remaining Spade Flush cards. To continue the routine it is necessary to make sure that the four cards in question are face-down. Simply for this, casually spread the top cards: if you see an indifferent card face, the work is done; otherwise, nonchalantly, flip over the packet.
As a result of these operations, all the cards are facing in one direction except the four remaining Spade Flush cards. To continue the routine it is necessary to make sure that the four cards in question are face-down. Simply for this, casually spread the top cards: if you see an indifferent card face, the work is done; otherwise, nonchalantly, flip over the packet.
At this point, the spectator should be convinced
all the cards are mixed.
5°/ Now ribbon spread the packet across the table
(Photo 11). Isolate the face-down cards (4). Bring together the other
cards and set them, face-down,
aside. Pick up the rest of deck and use it to turn over the
spectator's card, face-up, directly onto the table centre. Place the
deck onto the previously discarded cards (Photos 12a, b).
Take up the 4 face-down cards and present their faces towards you. Slowly deal the cards, one by one, associating them with the spectator's card in a row, in this way to reconstitute the Spade Royal Flush, according the normal card order (Photo 13)...
Take up the 4 face-down cards and present their faces towards you. Slowly deal the cards, one by one, associating them with the spectator's card in a row, in this way to reconstitute the Spade Royal Flush, according the normal card order (Photo 13)...
PHASE – II (Diamond
Royal Flush)
Tell the spectator that you will repeat the
effect. Re-take the deck and insert the Flush cards separately into
it. At this point the spectator expect the performer is going to
produce the Spade Royal Flush again. In reality that will be the
Diamond which is (unknown to the spectator!) on top of the deck.
As previously,
riffle-shuffle the deck, face-up, maintaining the five cards of the
Diamond Flush in place (on back of deck). Here, you are going to
execute the “jumble dealing” before the spectator's card choice.
But, at first, centralize the set-up: swing-cut the face-down
deck and flip the initial lower portion over, face-up, onto the other
(no pinky break). Grasp the deck from above with the right hand and
you are ready to execute the dealing in question as described in the
Phase-I, §2°.
Leave the dealt
cards on the table. Four of them proceed from the Diamond Royal
Flush. The 5th
card of the Flush is still on top of the deck. At present pretend to
remember the spectator has not chosen a card yet. Set the deck,
face-down, onto the table and invite the spectator
to cut a upper portion. Put the remaining portion crosswise above it
(“to mark
the cut
point”) (Photos 14a,
b).
Immediately attract spectator's attention to the
dealt pile again. Pick up it and continue to “mix” the cards
according to the CATO method and the retro-Faro, as already described
in Phase-I, §4°. Make sure
that the four Diamond Royal Flush cards are face-down in the packet.
Ribbon spread (Photo 15) and take out the 4
face-down cards. After glancing at their identity (Photo 16a) deposit
them in a row corresponding to the Royal Flush order onto the table.
Of course one card is missing to complete the Flush (Photo 16b).
Usually at this
stage of the routine the spectator has forgotten the manner the cut
of the deck was done: he mistake the initial upper portion for the
the lower (it is the purpose of the “cross force”!). Then,
calmly, lift up the present upper portion. Invite the spectator to
take up the top card from the tabled packet and to turn it over,
revealing it is the card to make up the Diamond Royal Flush (Photo
16c)...
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